I’m not into Chicago pizza but this review of Emmett’s by Shauna Lyon is why I read The New Yorker (among other reasons).
Pizza has a fierce tradition in New York. Regional styles have long been kept at bay, but the big floppy slice and the Lombardi’s and John’s coal-fired* pies have lately had to compete with a wave of puffball Neapolitan darlings and their topnotch mozzarella. Now there’s a new game in town: Chicago deep dish. Last year, Emmett Burke, who grew up in the Chicago suburb Lake Forest and went to college at Fordham, opened the first New York restaurant to ardently concentrate on the notoriously over-the-top stuffed pizza.
Crowds swarmed. Yelpers judged (“tasted worse than Play-Doh”). Threatened New Yorkers made fun: Jon Stewart dedicated long swear-filled rants on “The Daily Show” to upbraiding Chicago’s “casserole” passing for pizza. Chicago’s mayor, Rahm Emanuel, sent Stewart a deep-dish pie, which he fed to a dog, who sniffed it and turned away. The extended bit ended in a truce, when Stewart tasted a slice of the Chicago restaurant Lou Malnati’s deep dish on air, and admitted it was delicious. New York pride aside, the reaction to Emmett’s was split: (1) You call this Chicago pizza? and (2) Thank God you have arrived (because Uno franchises do not count).
There’s more but I mean wow, reading a review of a pizza place is fun when Shauna Lyon writes it. Made me laugh out loud. I still have no desire to go to Emmett’s (I like Keste’s) but I sure like reading about it.